Climbing route Schüsselkar

Schüsselkar

Description

Locker vom Hocker

One of the great classics of the Northern Alps. In 1981, the route was first climbed by the legendary rope team Güllich/Albert, and it still shouldn’t be underestimated today. Before the first rope length, make sure to warm up well to avoid the very common "cold pump." There are many ways to set up mobile anchors, but you need to be skilled and physically and mentally prepared for the challenges. Otherwise, before you reach the first fixed nut, there's a high risk of a ground fall. The second rope length, although moderately difficult, is not to be taken lightly and is often wet. The fourth rope length requires a good sense of the right sequence of moves for foot and hand placements and careful stepping off the first drilled hook. You must avoid falling until you pass the second bolt, or you will likely end up on the webbing. Often, climbers descend using the webbing. If you’re not in a hurry, you should also tackle the upper rope lengths. They might not have the rock quality of the first five, but they are still worth climbing.

For equipment, you should carry two sets of Friends up to size 2. Some sections can also be secured very well with camming devices, so you could also opt for one set of Friends and one set of cams.

Access:
It is best to ride a mountain bike (e-bike) to Wangalm and then continue on foot along the trail to Scharnitzjoch (2048 m). The walk from Wangalm to the start takes about one hour.

Alternatively, you can also access the route via Puittal.