From the "White Giant" in the Ötztal Valley to "Number One Direct" in the…
The Best Spots for Rock Climbing in Autumn
02.10.2023 in Sports
Cool nights, cold rock. As summer slowly turns to autumn, rock climbing can become less appealing due to the prospect of cold fingers and toes. It is the time for south-facing walls with plenty of sunshine. Here is a selection of the best such south-facing climbing spots in Tirol for a fun and not-too-cold climbing experience.
1. Innsbruck & Innsbruck-Land / Karwendel Mountains
The areas around Innsbruck and on the edges of the Karwendel Mountains offers plenty of good climbing for families, beginners and climbers who are more into enjoyment than extreme challenges. There are lots of pitches here graded 3, 4 and 5 (easy to intermediate) according to the system used here in Austria to rate the difficulty of climbing routes. The climbing garden in Mötz is particularly popular with younger and less experienced climbers, with many routes graded 3 (easy). The Sonnenplatten climbing area near Seefeld offers a broader range of difficulty levels. This climbing area has been recently renovated in collaboration with local climbing legend Heinz Zak, meaning all routes now meet the latest safety standards. Sunny Joe (7a+) in the Chill Area sector is a tough route 18 metres in length. If you're looking for something even more challenging, you'll find it on the Chinese Wall in Leutasch. Thanks to their south-facing orientation, the routes there are dry and easy to grip even on sunny winter days. Strong climbers will also enjoy the challenge of the 40 Metre Wall, where the name tells you everything you need to know.
- Sonnenplatten climbing area, Scharnitz, 51 routes
- Climbing area in Mötz, Mötz, 20 routes
- Chinese Wall, Puitbach/Leutasch, 183 routes
2. Pillerseetal Valley
Often too hot in summer due to its exposed location, autumn is exactly the right time of year for (multi-pitch) climbing at the Steinplatte. Water has moulded the grippy limestone over thousands of years and given it a structure that gives the mostly challenging climbing here a very special charm. Hundreds of millions of years ago, during the Mesozoic Era, the Steinplatte was part of a vast coral sea. Today it is the only dry reef in Europe, offering wonderful intermediate and advanced climbing. With pitches of up to 50 metres and numerous routes graded 8 and 9 (difficulty to very difficult), experienced climbers in particular are spoilt for choice. From seriously challenging pitches like the Sleepwalker (8a, 25 metres) to long but less tough ones like Lehrbuameck (6a, 50 metres), the Steinplatte has plenty to warm you up even on the coldest of autumn days.
- Steinplatte, Pillerseetal Valley, 70 routes
3. Wilder Kaiser Mountains
The craggy peaks of the Wilder Kaiser Mountain are popular amongst not only hikers and mountaineers but also rock climbers. While the north-facing pitches offer shade in summer, they are best avoided in the cooler autumn months. Instead, head to the south-facing Wilderer Kanzel with its technical and challenging climbing. This area is so exposed that it can be climbed even in winter. Strong climbers will find even more tough routes (rated 7 and above, experts only) at the rock-climbing area in Achleiten. Its south-facing walls offer over 170 different pitches.
- Wilderer Kanzel, Ellmau, Wilder Kaiser Mountains, 33 routes
- Climbing area in Achleiten, Achleiten, 178 routes
4. East Tirol
One of the most beautiful rock climbing routes in Tirol is found in East Tirol. Located in the Paradise sector of the rock climbing garden near the Dolomitenhütte hut, it goes by the name Another Day in Paradise and offers 35 metres of rewarding climbing with some fabulous views. Towards the top of the route the rock becomes increasingly exposed and the views of the Dolomites increasingly stunning. The first section requires strength and agility, while the second section is more a question of endurance and stamina. Like most of the climbing around the Dolomitenhütte hut, this one is also perfect for beautiful autumn days. The high altitude of the route at over 1,600 metres means it stays wet for a long time in spring due to melting snow. The Dolomitenhütte is only suitable for beginners to a limited extent - most of the routes are for intermediate and expert climbers.
- Dolomitenhütte, Lienz, 116 routes
5. Kufstein region
The climbing around Kufstein offers something for everyone. While many climbing walls mainly offer routes with similar levels of difficulty, the Moorsbach climbing garden is the perfect place for first attempts at technical climbing - and a few metres further on you will climb some of the most difficult routes in the world. It was in 1990 that Gerhard Hörhager first climbed a 10+ route here called Guana, which is still in excellent condition today and can also be climbed by technically experienced climbers in the autumn months. For those travelling with children and new to the sport of rock climbing there are plenty of easier options in Moorsbach too (graded 2 to 3, easy). The south-east facing limestone offers plenty of grip, dries quickly and is therefore easy to climb in autumn and spring (560 metres above sea level). Be careful on some of the very easy routes - the slabs of rock have been climbed so many times that they are quite smooth and slippery. After all, Moorsbach is one of the oldest climbing areas in Tirol and has even used by the Austrian army for training purposes.
- Klettergarten Moorsbach, Kufstein, 45 routes
6. Tirolean Oberland
Fancy solving some problems? This area is not as high in altitude as those mentioned above, but the Tirolean Oberland (the term given to the western part of Tirol) has many sport climbing routes to offer. It is here that you will find two exciting bouldering areas that also offer perfect conditions in autumn. The big advantage is that the gneiss becomes even grippier in cold temperatures. Perfect conditions to tackle the 144 problems on 30 boulders in the Höll bouldering area. With boulders ranging from 4b to 8a+, beginners and experienced boulderers alike will find the right route here. The recently developed Hochimst area is brand new on the bouldering map. Instead of gneiss, it has limestone. The 33 routes are of a more dignified nature, with many rated 6 (intermediate). The route Straight to Monaco is one of the more challenging at 8a (difficult). In addition to the bouldering fun, there is also a special vibe here - hop on the cable car with a crash pad, hike up between the cows and, once you have finished climbing, go scavenging for mushrooms for dinner - a perfect autumn day!
- Bouldergebiet Höll, Kaunertal Valley, 144 routes, 30 boulder blocks
- Bouldergebiet Hochimst, Imst, 33 routes, 11 boulder blocks
You might also be interested in:
Autumn in Tirol: 10 tips on the best things to see and do.
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Alexander Zimmermann loves spending time in the mountains – sometimes hiking, sometimes climbing. In winter he can be found out and about on alpine skis and cross-country skis. He works as a journalist and strategist based in Munich, Tirol, Hamburg and Heidelberg.
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